Home » Arma Hobby kits » Building PZL P.1 – part 1 cockpit

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We are building PZL P.1 1:48 scale model kit. Model was already commented on Polish modeling forums, so it is a good opportunity to speak about details. See part 1 – cockpit and check our guides to quick and easy assembly!

wklejone fototrawionki PZL P.1

Assembly preparation

The most inportant prteparation building Arma Hobby and Attack Squadron kits is careful cut out of parts. It makes further steps easy and straightforward. We recommend modeling saw from JLC, or Hauler. After one eveing of work you will be ready to furter stages of assembly.

Warped parts?

Resin parts tend to some distortion during production. Our kit parts are designed to perfect fit, so if you find any distortions, just warm parts with hair dryer and correct carefuly shape until fit.

Photoetched parts

Most of modelers are familiar with photoetch. Just reminder to cut them with sharp scissors on with sharp modelling knife on hard surface. Clean cut edges with sandpaper. You can glue them with superglue or just solder them.

Heve not yet your  PZL P.1 – check at Arma Hobby shop and buy it!

wnętrze PZL P.1 - model 1:48

PZL P.1 cockpit assembly

Assmbly was started with glueing side wall construction PE. Pilot’s seat was assebled first PE9 and 10 and PE5 (properly bent it has a grove for reinforcement tube on back). Then PE6 was added. It may look that seat legs would be tricky to assembly and weak : PE13 / 14 /16 but they worked easily and are strenght enought..

Regulation wheel and throttle levers were assembled using .25 mm plastic spacers.

Resin sides of fuselage were slightly bent inside, so I corrected them using 0,5mm Albion Alloys brass tube for seat reinforcement bar.

Control panel PZL P.1

I had unexpected problem with control panel. Film with control panels was printed so in scale, that it was almost invisible inside dark cockpit. Marcin has prepared overdone ones and you can print them and use in model. I have laminated paper print with gloss paint and then glued it with the same paint under control panel photoetch. You can download file for print  here.


Cockpit painting PZL P.1

Original cockpit was painted with protective transparent gloss laquer. They were natural metal. After priming I have used Bilmodelmakers metelic paint samples kindly supplied by manufacturer.

wnętrze PZL pomalowane farbami Bilmodelmakers

Then Black Tensocrom shades and Gloss Alluminum Lifecolor and Polished Aluminium Humbrol highlights were added. Then drybrushed with steel pigment from Lifecolor.


Fuselage final assembly

 I would recommend first assembly suselage and engine, parts 21 and 22, carefuly aligning sides to have a smooth transition. Then part 12 – to have a clean fit to engine (20) and fuselage sides. There are special guides along edges to make easy fit. Then assembly part 13 – after upper fuselage with similar guides. They are designed to ensure proper assembly and no need to puttying and sanding.

po weatheringu - pomalowane wnętrze

Your questions and comments are welcome. They may be very helpful to fellow modelers!

4 thoughts on “Building PZL P.1 – part 1 cockpit

  1. Antoni Lachetta says:

    Well, you guys sure know your job. This is the best resin kit I have seen.

    For removing some parts from the pouring block I use a Trumpeter scribing tool. You must scribe along the edge from both side to get a smooth break. I did this to separate the wing leading edge and fuselage halves when I built the Toro PZL P.7. Much better and easier then using a saw.

    For cleaning the resin I use washing soda (Sodium Carbonate, Na2CO3). This is the best substance for removing oil and grease. A spoonful in warm water and then I scrub the parts with a small, very soft, nylon brush. I got it from the 99p shop and is meant for electric toothbrushes. It is probably not that good for its intended use but is very good for removing every trace of oil from the panel lines and corners as well as the sanding dust. Careful as it is also very good at removing oil from the skin.

    For the moment I have one question. Was the seat entirely bare metal or were the surfaces of the seat itself covered with some material?

    I look forward to Part 2.

  2. Thank you for sharing modeling tips. About P.1 interior a very little is known. We have only one photo and one sketch from AJ-Press PZL P.7a book that covers all line P.1-P.8. Sketch shows something on seat bottom, it looks like a little cushion or parachute. In my P.1 I would left it as is. Bare metal seat looks very well.

  3. Mark Ejdrygiewicz says:

    I was looking very closely at the cockpit details you have in this marvelous kit. What threw me off at first, was thinking (incorrectly) that the PE frame you have is flat as a limitation of the 2D photo etch pieces. I’m very happy I was incorrect when looking very closely at the images within the wonderful book from AJ Press (Monografie Lotnicze 72). I was VERY impressed with how close your details and kit construction with the cockpit area are in line with what the images of the PZL P.1 show, including the square frame pieces.

    It is very interesting to see such a flat seat. Your comment of the sketch of the padding on the seat makes sense, as at that time it was typical for a pilot to sit on his parachute (if they flew with one!)

    The other details you include look absolutely splendid! I cannot wait to open the box and get started on this build.


  4. Mark Ejdrygiewicz says:

    I am at the construction phase of this kit, and I would like to say that I am still very impressed with the quality of this kit. There are however a few things that make building a little difficult when constructing the cockpit area.

    Firstly, may I make the suggestion to include the colour call-out in the instruction sheet for future kits please? Although you online support from this website is absolutely incredible, and appreciated, for those who may not have easy access to the internet, or your website, and would be strictly using the instruction sheet, it would be much more beneficial to include the colours needed in the instructions. Although there is the FS colour number on the last page for the Insignia Red, there is very limited information for other colours given. With this in mind though, I would also mention in the instructions of future kits, to visit your website for further building information and your blog.

    You are truly one of the few model companies that offers such a fantasit customer support program (between the website, your building posts, as well as your blog). I really appreciate this, as I am sure many others do as well!

    Secondly, when installing the brass frame pieces (1 & 2) into the cockpit tub, I needed to shave the front edge of the tub flush, otherwise the front and back edges of the brass were too long to fit inside. By shaving that small lip off, the brass pieces fit very nice and flush in the cockpit.

    The detail however is outstanding, and building this kit straight out of the box will give the builder a very rewarding cockpit. The thin casting ability you have with some of the parts (like the straps over the rudder pedals) is impressive, as well as the seat. The seat however has no lap belt or shoulder harness. I looked very, very closly at all the images within the reference book I have (from AJ Press) and there is an image where the shoulder strap appears to be hanging over the port side of the fuselage. It only makes sense to me to have a restraint system in the cockpit of a prototype fighter, and although it may not be 100% accurate, I think that modelling the harness on the system used by PZL in the P.2, P.6, P.7 and P.8 would make the most sense.

    I did add some details to the back of the instrument panel, as the open areas to the left and right of the bank indicator would be visible. You do mention that the instrument faces are printed in a way that the dials are too fine to see, and I appreciate you offering a larger version of the instruments for priting. I will say this though – thank you! Far too often one see’s instruments that are too over done in this scale. In a 1/24 or even some larger instruments in 1/32, one could see some of the details of the gauge face. But in 1/48, where each little “tic” or “line” in the instrument face on the actual gauge may be 1.5-2mm wide at most, in 1/48, these lines are often less than a human hair. The details you see on the panel are spot on for scale. So at the very least, the model builder has an option to include either “scale” dials, or “visible” dials that you provide here on the website. Options are always a great thing!

    I have to say though, that the engineering of this kit, the fitment of the parts, and the attention to detail you’ve put into this resin kit are outstanding! Dry fitting the finished instrument panel into the cockpit, I was worried that it may be too big or small, however it fits perfectly once everything is done!

    I hope to have this kit built shortly and am looking forward to the next stages of construction. Thank you again.


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